If you're tired of bashing your tie rod against every rock on the trail, it might be time to look into a dana 60 high steer setup. It's one of those modifications that most people put off because it seems complicated or expensive, but the first time you cruise over a jagged boulder without hearing that sickening "clank" of steel hitting stone, you'll realize it was worth every penny.
When we're talking about hardcore off-roading, the Dana 60 is pretty much the gold standard for front axles. It's beefy, it takes a beating, and it has a massive aftermarket. But even with a stock Dana 60, your steering components are sitting right out there in the danger zone. They're usually mounted low, hanging out where they can get snagged, bent, or completely sheared off. Moving things up high isn't just about looking cool—though it definitely does—it's about survival on the trail.
Why Clearance is Everything
Let's be real for a second. If you've spent the money to swap a Dana 60 into your rig, you're probably running tires that are at least 37 inches tall, if not 40s or bigger. With tires that size, you're looking for the toughest lines you can find. The problem is that the factory steering geometry was designed for trucks that spend most of their time on the pavement or flat dirt roads.
In a stock configuration, your tie rod connects the two steering knuckles at a relatively low point. When you're crawling through a rock garden, that tie rod is the first thing that's going to make contact with an obstacle. Once you bend a tie rod, your alignment goes out the window, your tires start pointing at each other (or away from each other), and your day is basically over. A dana 60 high steer kit moves that tie rod—and often the drag link—up above the leaf springs or the axle centerline. This tucks your vital steering components away from the rocks and keeps you moving forward.
The Parts You Actually Need
Setting up high steer isn't just a matter of flipping a couple of bolts. You're going to need some specific hardware to make this work safely. The most important pieces are the high steer arms. These are heavy-duty blocks of steel (or sometimes aluminum, though most trail guys prefer steel) that bolt onto the top of your steering knuckles.
High Steer Arms and Studs
For a kingpin Dana 60, these arms usually replace the cap that holds the kingpin spring in place. You'll want arms that are thick enough to handle the leverage of big tires. One thing a lot of guys overlook is the quality of the studs. Don't go cheap here. Use high-strength studs and conical washers to ensure those arms don't wiggle loose. If an arm comes loose while you're wheeling, you're going to have a very bad time.
The Springless Option
While we're talking about arms, you should probably look into a "springless" setup. In a traditional kingpin Dana 60, there's a heavy plastic bushing and a coil spring that keeps tension on the kingpin. Over time, that spring loses its tension, which can lead to the dreaded death wobble. Many dana 60 high steer arms come with a set screw and a preload spacer that lets you eliminate the spring entirely. It makes the steering feel much tighter and gives you a way to adjust for wear as the years go by.
Kingpin vs Ball Joint Issues
It's worth noting that not all Dana 60s are created equal. If you have an older "kingpin" axle (usually from the late 70s to the early 90s), doing a high steer conversion is relatively straightforward because the top of the knuckle is flat and ready for an arm to be bolted on.
However, if you're running a newer "ball joint" Dana 60, things get a bit more "fun." These knuckles aren't naturally flat on top. To get a dana 60 high steer setup on a ball joint axle, you often have to buy specialized aftermarket knuckles that are cast with a flat mounting surface, or you have to find a shop that can machine your factory knuckles. It's more work and more money, but for a lot of people, the gain in clearance and steering strength is still a no-brainer.
Dealing with Frame and Oil Pan Clearance
Here's where things can get a little tricky. Just because you can move your steering links up high doesn't mean they won't hit something else. When you move your drag link and tie rod up several inches, you're bringing them closer to your engine's oil pan and the frame of your vehicle.
Before you go welding everything into place, you need to cycle your suspension. That means taking the springs out (or airing down your bags) and moving the axle all the way to the bump stops. You might find that your fancy new dana 60 high steer arm wants to occupy the same space as your frame rail when the suspension is fully compressed. You might need to notch the frame or adjust your bump stops to keep parts from crashing into each other. It's a bit of a balancing act, but it's better to find out in the garage than on a vertical climb.
Why Geometry Matters More Than You Think
If you're just building a dedicated trail rig that gets trailered everywhere, you can get away with some "sketchy" steering geometry. But if you plan on driving your rig to the trailhead at 65 mph, you need to pay attention to your drag link and track bar angles.
The goal is to keep the drag link and the track bar as parallel as possible. If they're at different angles, you'll experience "bump steer," which is that lovely sensation where your steering wheel jerks to the side every time you hit a pothole. When you install a dana 60 high steer kit, you're changing the mounting point of the drag link. This often means you also need to move the mounting point of your track bar to keep everything in sync. It's a bit of extra work, but it makes the difference between a rig that's a joy to drive and one that's a nightmare on the highway.
The Full Hydro vs Assist Debate
Once you've got your high steer arms on, you'll probably start thinking about how you're actually going to turn those big tires. Even with a high steer setup, a stock steering box is going to struggle to turn 40-inch tires when they're wedged in a crack.
A lot of guys will add a hydraulic assist ram to their dana 60 high steer setup. Since you now have those beefy arms with extra mounting holes, it's much easier to tab the axle and the steering arm to mount a ram. This takes the stress off your steering box and the frame, putting the power right where it needs to be—at the knuckles. It's the ultimate "peace of mind" upgrade for anyone who plays in the rocks.
Wrapping It All Up
At the end of the day, moving to a dana 60 high steer configuration is one of those "grown-up" mods for your off-roader. It shows you're moving past just "making it fit" and into the realm of making it work correctly. You're gaining clearance, strengthening your steering links, and giving yourself the ability to fine-tune your geometry for better handling.
Sure, it takes some measuring, maybe a little grinding, and a decent chunk of change for the right parts, but the confidence it gives you on the trail is huge. No more looking down and wondering if your tie rod is currently shaped like a pretzel. You can just focus on the line ahead, knowing your steering is tucked up high and out of harm's way. If you're serious about your Dana 60-equipped rig, this is one upgrade you really shouldn't skip.